![]() 07/18/2018 at 08:45 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
I know we’ve seen article after article about how the brand of oil doesn’t matter. Bu t, we still have our preferences. So, what do you use? For the Miata, it’s got 170k miles and will see autocross duty. Previous owner had put in Mobil 1 synthetic.
Wile we’re on the topic, what about brake fluid?
![]() 07/18/2018 at 08:52 |
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inside glove compartment, there is a book. Owners manual. Whatever it says to use, that’s what I use.
Sometimes, when my cars get up in miles, I use similar oil but with a high miles upgrade
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Rotella T6, pretty much exclusively.
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Oil? You mean unicorn blood?
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Penrite 20w-60
thinking of going to 30-70
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tastes great
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Land Rover and Benz, both 15W-40 Shell Rotella T4 (diesel grade). The latter because it has over 400,000 miles and is a diesel, the former because it is a 7:1 compression tractor engine with clearances of “lol” thousandths and doesn’t get driven much, so I like (a) to make sure there is oil on surfaces, (b) it will not eat all that oil, and (c) it has some zinc replacement additives, IIRC.
My Galaxie (just over 100k) runs 10W-30 Valvoline Max-Life with ZDDP replacement.
Brake fluid, I pretty much put Castrol GT:LMA in everything.
![]() 07/18/2018 at 09:00 |
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I go with the factory stuff unless the car is heavily modified.
For the M3 there are only a few manufacturers that make 10w60 and it’s all about $15 per qt, so I just get it from the dealer.
I use Ford Motorcraft oil and filters for the Ranger (amazon)
Honda GN4 for the Grom (amazon)
The Audi is still serviced at the dealer as it’s still under warranty and I bought Audi Care with the car so the maintenance is covered until 35k
The same goes for the Forester
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Usually store brand oils, as long as the weight is correct you’ re good to go.
The only caveat to that for me is that for older engines I make sure to find an oil with a high zinc content
![]() 07/18/2018 at 09:03 |
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Less filling
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+1 for “lol” thousandths...I always describe my ‘93 F150 with the 4.9 as a glorified tractor.
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Just whatever grade the manufacturer advises , full synthetic and from an established brand. Don’t care which brand though, as long as I’ve heard the name before without negative context.
2000
Peugeot 406 coupe (odo:
334k)
1987
Peugeot 205 CTi with a 2.0t swap from a 1996 Lancia (odo:
210k)
![]() 07/18/2018 at 09:13 |
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I’m a bad man, I dont really care so long as it’s OEM recommened spec.
In my Caddies I always ran Mobil 1 full synthetic tho.
![]() 07/18/2018 at 09:15 |
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Mobil 1 10w40 in the winter, Mobil 1 15w50 or Valvoline 20w50 high zinc in the summer. Sometimes they only have one or the other at the store.
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In the Miata, I run Mobil 1 full synthetic extended performance 5w-30 and a Mobil 1 extended performance filter. And with that I usually do about an 8-10k oil change interval. The oil and filter says it has a 15k life so I figure that seems good for safety.
In the STi, I run Shell Rotella T6 full synthetic 5 w- 40. I’ve also run that oil in the Miata for the purpose of cleaning my VVT. But I found I didnt really like how the car ran with that oil. Subaru seems to run the same but consumes a little less oil. Lots of debate on the internet about this “diesel oil”. Change this on a 4- 5k interval.
Girlfriend’s Honda Civic just gets the cheapo conventional oil from Walmart and whatever filter is on sale and changed on a 3k interval.
![]() 07/18/2018 at 09:18 |
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Wait, brake fluid and oil are different? Crap. Maybe thats why I’m on my 40th corolla.
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I use Mobil 1 Synthetic because I can get it for $26/case on sale at Costco. They run that promotion at least every 6 weeks, and I always grab a case when they do.
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Both tractors run Rotella T5 15W40. I buy it in 5 gallon buckets. The FieSTa gets whatever semi-/full synthetic 5w20 is on sale at Advance Auto Parts as part of a filter and oil package deal (I think it was Valvoline last time...). The F150 got Mobil Super Syn last oil change, but I think I’m going to keep paying the Ford dealer to change it, that cartridge filter is annoying as fuck, and so is the location of the drain plug, So it’ll get Motorcraft Semi-Syn, just like all the other dealer-serviced turbo Fords. The Motorcycle runs either Amsoil Motorcycle or Genuine BMW Mot or rad 15W-50.
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That will tell you what weight but unless it is a BMW product, the brand is not specified. Not all oils are made equal. Advancements in oil technology have come nearly as far as tire technology so there are major differences sometimes.
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I usually just put gasoline in every fluid container
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Gasoline is way better than antifreeze and water for the radiator.
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I use Mobil 1 Synthetic because I can get it for $26/case on sale at Costco.
I like Mobil 1 for similar price reasons. 5 quart jugs can be had from Walmart for $23 to $26, depending on sales. I o
rder 2, and it qualifies for free shipping to my house, so I don’t even have to visit the store. Then Mobil runs rebates a few times a year, so I get $12 back for
each jug.
I figure a net cost of $11 for 5 quarts of full synthetic
oil is
really
hard to beat.
![]() 07/18/2018 at 09:41 |
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well, this is true.
![]() 07/18/2018 at 09:42 |
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Oil: Mobil 1, but occasionally Castrol Magnatec or Valvoline Synthetic.
Brake fluid? Prestone almost exclusively.
So I stick to reputable, affordable brands, but rarely splurge for the fancy stuff for DD duty. I’ve never had an issue with any Blackstone report or with my brake system — except for that one time my Motive power bleeder split my Passat’s fluid reservoir open from the massive 15psi of pressure. VW plastics for the win.
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Keeps my windshield unbelievably clean
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I think the fintail gets 10W-40, maybe of various brands as it burns a little (no more than a quart a year, but you can see it). I always use a name brand, but I don’t think I have been consistent. However, I check it (and coolant) ev e ry time I drive the car. I don’t change it myself, I forget what the garage uses.
Modern car gets whatever the dealer garage uses, as it has prepaid maintenance .
![]() 07/18/2018 at 10:11 |
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Valvoline conventional in the Mopars, with a Mopar filter.
Shell/ Rotella in the truck, with Motorcraft filters.
After much toying with oils in my modded Stratus 2.7L, I stay far away from Mobil 1. I also found Amsoil, Redline, and Royal Purple not worth the added cost over simple Valvoline Synthetic.
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Whatever synthetic is on sale, and a Napa Gold filter.
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I’ve been using mobil 1 in my 3. it’s 0w-20.
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Basically whatever is on sale. ‘99 F-150 with 210k, which I tow/haul with on a semi regular basis. I’ve switched back and forth between conventional, full synthetic, semi synthetic, and high mileage semi synthetic. I’m currently running Pennzoil because there was an amazing sale for like $3 a quart and I bought a bunch of it. Synthetic/semi synthetic seems to burn off/leak at a much faster rate than conventional so I’ll probably stick to conventional for now.
Also for controversial topics I ran the orange Fram can, the cheapest ones, for around 100k without issue. But because of their bad reputation I’ve recently switched to WIX.
Edit: 5w-30 in the truck if it really matters.
For the toys, Yamalube 20W- 50 in the warrior, and Castrol 20W-50 motorcycle oil in the 200x, XR200R, ATC90, and XJ750* .
*maybe? It might still be Amsoil, I put maybe 750 miles a year on that bike and honestly can’t remember if I changed the oil this year or not. I’m % 75 sure I did.
![]() 07/18/2018 at 11:24 |
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My cars have always had a lot of miles on them, so I’ve never taken t he plunge on full synthetic , for fear of exposing a leak. My Musta ng gets Motorcraft synthetic blend, and I’ve gotten into the habit of using Valvoline syn blend on everything else.
I’ve also found myself using Valvoline when it comes to b rake fluid . IIRC, it has higher temperature specs than Pennzoil or store brands. It’s DOT 3&4 compatible, which came in extra handy when my brother & I found out that his Saab takes DOT 4.
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E92 M3 - LiquiMoly 10w-60. Bosch brake fluid
Triumph 675R Race bike - LiquiMoly 15w-50 4T Race. Motul RBF 660 brake fluid.
KTM 450 SMR (also race bike) - Motorex 10w-40 4T CrossPower. Motul RBF 600 for the brakes and Motorex mineral oil for the clutch.
Jeep WK2 5.7 Hemi - haven't owned it long enough yet but will probably run Penzoil ultra plat.
![]() 07/18/2018 at 11:34 |
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I buy the cheapest conventional oil that works with my car. That’s because it burns/leaks/etc anything I put into the system.
#JustSubaruThings
![]() 07/18/2018 at 13:24 |
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Since all automotive fluid are oil-derived, I just buy crates of vegetable oil from Sam’s Club and pour that into every tank under the hood.
Ah, this thread is exactly what I needed this morning. Thank you.
![]() 07/18/2018 at 13:26 |
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Mobil 1 full synthetic, every six months. Keeps things running.
We're supposed to change our brake fluid?
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Some dot versions absorb more fluid than others. Dot 4 I believe?
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typically mobil 1 or pennzoil plat
914 gets brad penn due to the higher zinc